Monthly Archives: September 2007

Well, it looks like this.

With its upright riding posture, eminently practical design and robustness of construction, the archetypal Amsterdam bike is an unremarked-upon everyday object of considerable beauty. More or less as soon as I touched down here, I conceived the idea of picking up a pair - one each for Nurri and myself - and having them shipped back to New York for us to ride there.

There’s a problem with this line of thinking, though, and it swiftly made itself obvious: there’s a profound relationship between everything that makes the bike experience here so wonderfully practical - the riding posture, the ability to ride while dressed in ordinary street clothes, the lack of a need to wear a helmet - and the entire public infrastructure of bikeways that supports this mode of use. Still more important is the extended context of social practices and agreements that enfolds rider, bicycle and path. The individual machine, separated from this culture medium, is just a fetish object (albeit an unusually comfortable one).

None of this quite means that I’ve given up on the idea of shipping some bikes home. They’re still pretty rad, and New York is flat enough for them to make sense as conveyance. But my enthusiasm is clearly for the place of the bicycle in Dutch society, every bit as much as it is for the object itself. The one, as beautiful as it is - and as infinitely easier to transplant - cannot substitute for the other.

…and Twitter’s down, at least for the moment, making it hard to coordinate with the crew. At any rate, I’m here, at the Krasnapolsky - give me a buzz!

I’m off for Amsterdam in a few hours for Picnic, where, at last count, I expect to see beloved Alex, Cris, danah, Eric, Fabien, Julian, papa Jyri, Laurent, Matt, Matt, neb, Nicolas, Régine, and Timo. : . )

Oh, yeah, and I’m giving a “City” talk on Friday the 28th. See you there?

Y’know, every once in awhile the NYT will run one of these frothy, zeitgeisty pieces, works of investigative assiduity that oh-so-fearlessly delve into the wacky lives of today’s young urban achievers. These tend to be collections of anecdotes presented as somehow representative of a cohort, sociology-lite attempts to take the pulse of a generational section as it passes through history, and they function primarily in support of the paper’s ideological police mission: if you don’t resemble these people…why not? (Although a rich vein of this tripe is generated for us by the Times‘ notorious Jennifer 8. Lee, New York is, if anything, still more guilty of this kind of conduct. Remember “grups“?)

For the moment, my concern is not so much with whether there’s any point of resemblance between the trend the Times writer claims to discern and anything we’d recognize as reality. We can deal with that some other time. No, it’s simply this: who the hell are these people?

We hear from, among others, a 25-year-old software developer with “a smartly appointed studio in a full-service building in Tribeca,” a 28-year-old consultant whose dates “will drop comments on how much his sales team had made for the year,” and a 29-year-old lawyer who “has found herself clipping price tags off expensive clothes she buys on shopping binges.” Admittedly, these are fully human beings reduced to a sentence or two by a reporter with an agenda, and having been on the receiving end of that kind of treatment in the past, I’m willing to give them the benefit of the doubt. These women are probably nowhere near as vapid in real life as this piece makes them sound.

Still. Who the hell are these people?

I’m beginning to accept, with commingled relief and shock, that I must travel in very, very different circles - not merely from these poor women, but from the vast majority of the upper-middle-class people routinely depicted in this sort of piece. The people I know in their mid-to-late-twenties are, by and large, hardworking grad students, or similarly diligent midlevel designers and architects: not people who get to take a hell of a lot of vacations, let alone worry about what class they’re seated in. (At their age, while I was admittedly privileged in so very many ways otherwise, I got by on a sergeant’s pay.)

My inability to wrap my head around the fact that these are the people whose choices now shape the city I live in reminds me of my incredulity at certain comments I remember reading on a Curbed thread last year, comments that stated outright that women in my Manhattan neighborhood, Kips Bay, wouldn’t consider dating a man unless he had the right job, the right watch, and the right jeans (!).

Silly me, I used to grin at the apparent superficiality of those Chinese women I read about who had supposedly updated Mao’s “four musts” of bicycle, radio, watch and sewing machine for the twenty-first century, requiring that each of their romantic partners come complete with a Rolex, a plasma TV, a BMW, and his own apartment. Boy howdy, though, the gestalt that comes across in pieces like this is worse - tackier and more awful - than any Chinese attitude I’ve ever heard of. I mean, given the stark historical inflections they’ve lived through, Shanghainese women my own age can probably be forgiven for wanting at some level to get while the gettin’s good. I’m not so sure the same can be said of the average resident of Kips Bay - and not to single the women out, either.

Uh, what happened to, like, being with people because you loved them and responded to something ineffable in the makeup of their character? What happened to making do together, because it was the “together” part that was more important than how far forward you were seated on the plane? Thank god I’m shielded from having to please people like this relationshipwise, although I’m nowhere near as buffered as I’d like to be from some of the other consequences of attitudes like this.

I guess that’s the point of this rant. I don’t begrudge folks like the ones depicted in the Times piece the right to exist, not in the slightest. My resentment is simply that the city seems increasingly to be tuned exclusively to their needs and requirements, pushing other alternatives of the map entirely, almost literally, in some slow, grinding, horribly Greshamesque process of exclusion.

Have a look at Third Avenue between, say, 23rd and 34th Streets if you don’t believe me. It’s not a pretty thing. (The relationship between the spreading blight of sports bars, tanning salons and Tasty D-Lites and the increasing percentage of my time spent far, far from here is left as an exercise for the reader.) I know we’re not the only ones who feel alienated by and from this Newer York and the set of values that appears to govern it, at least for the time being. You don’t have to be Richard Florida, either, to speculate that at some point in the relatively near future, this alienation will have significant cultural and economic consequences.

Minsuk Cho's hoopular dome

Last night was Storefront for Art and Architecture’s 25th anniversary party, symbolized by an iconic dome by Minsuk Cho in Petrosino Park just across the street. Storefront has always been one of my top two or three favorite venues, and they’re celebrating the anniversary with an extraordinary run of projects over the next month, almost every single last one of which I will miss.

I would really try to see as many of these as possible: the event sounds a little bit like Conflux, drawn out across four weeks. (The upcoming show on Danish high-density living also sounds pretty hooah.)

You’ve got to know that there is not one single thing wrong with drinking beer with friends under a dome of glow-in-the-dark hula hoops in the middle of an intersection on a warm evening just after the end of summer. I spent most of my time talking with Mark Shepard, super-talented designer/artist Andrea Blum, and one or two other folks. Randy from grubbykid regaled us with hair-raising tales of designing for a certain vaguely sleazy, vertically-integrated clothing manufacturer, and it was great to see Jessica Blaustein from the Van Alen Institute sporting the same impeccable grey Prada boots I last saw her in, at the Architecture and Situated Technologies symposium last October.

Eventually, Mark and I bugged out uptown to the jampacked party at atelier Lewis.Tsurumaki.Lewis, where, big surprise, we saw a decent swath of the selfsame people - funny how that works. What I did not expect was that it was by and large a much younger crowd up there, gathered to toast LTL’s publication of their new monograph Opportunistic Architecture. I don’t need to tell you that LTL is a practice on the ascendant, inna express stylee, and the book lays out just why this should be. Also, their cheese sticks were pretty great.

Nurri had meanwhile decamped to Yom Kippur services (and if I ever needed to ponder the sheer wonderful oddness of the 21st century we find ourselves in, I’d sit and wonder just how it was that my (a) Korean (b) wife would be attending atoning at an LGBT synagogue). Mark and I, non-atoners, grabbed a late dinner at Tiffin Wallah, which is so very nicely done that it almost, almost might have been an LTL project…and way tasty besides.

At any rate: hearty congratulations to both LTL and Storefront, two institutions I believe in and am proud to share a hometown with. You guys are all, collectively, fighting the good fight, and it’s quite a thing to see.

…don’t bother wearing flowers in your hair: for no particular reason that I can discern, they’re all over the cabs.

They’re hideous. They completely undermine the crisp and immediately legible proposition that is Taxicab Yellow. Someone please make them stop.

Assuming (and from personal experience, I suspect accurately) that our Korean audience would be unlikely to confront us speakers with probing questions face-to-face, one of the neat things that the LIFT folks did in Seoul was to arrange for attendees to ask their questions via Post-Its. These were gathered and presented anonymously at the get-together afterward.

Admittedly, this is not a 100% solution, but it’s got its merits; if nothing else, the board of collected Post-Its constituted both a jumping-off point for further, beer-fueled discussions and an enduring visual record of the enthusiastic response.

This is one of the questions that was addressed to me, and I’m going to make my best attempt at framing an answer.

I should first confess that I just don’t believe in utopia, or anything close to it; I don’t place much stock in the idea that it’s either possible or advisable to articulate a perfected end state for anything as dynamic as a human city. That said, after thirty-nine years on the planet, I’ve sure as hell got some opinions on what works and what does not, and since you asked I am more than happy to share them with you.

The first thing that might surprise folks who know me - unless they’ve been paying very close attention - is how little I trust high-end design and architecture to deliver enduringly congenial urban environments; long, sad experience with the kind of hotels, shops, restaurants, bars and clubs you so often see gleaming from the pages of wallpaper* and its ilk has convinced me that, however beautiful they may be, such locales are all too often the province of fabulous wannabes and overprivileged douchelords. When it comes right down to it, I’d much (much) rather hang out with friends on the patio at Zeitgeist than fight my way through a scrum of coked-up nonentities at the Hudson and its bleeding-edge latterday equivalents.

Lord knows I love me some Modernism, at every scale, but as far as I’m concerned spaces that support conviviality and reflection (as the case may be) will always trump formal beauty. When such spaces are also executed with a high degree of aesthetic refinement - as I suspect Ryue Nishizawa’s Moriyama House is, and I know for sure Austin’s Hotel San Jose is - so much the better. But the flexibility, adaptability and comfort that give rise to pleasant interaction come first.

Sure, there’s a part of me that would love to live in (at least the physical aspect of) the world depicted in Gattaca. Similarly, Jacques Tati’s Play Time wasn’t, for me, nearly so much a withering send-up of High Modernism as a wistful look back at the possibilities and promises of a path not chosen.

Sure, something in me wonders at the self-evident glamour and sheen of Manhattan life, oh, round about 1966, what with the Velvets playing all shiny-boots-of-leather downtown, Massimo Vignelli rolling out his never-bettered subway signage, and helicopters taking off hourly from the roof of the Pan Am Building. And there’s a part of me that will always have a weather eye peeled for the re-emergence of that kind of glamour, however garbed in twenty-first century globalist drag it may be. But you can more reliably extrapolate the balance of my true feelings about liveable cities from the above comments.

What would I do if I had full, SimCityesque control? My urban utopia would assemble these traits, kaleidoscopically:

- A setting as gemlike and as accessible to ocean, mountain, forest and desert as San Francisco’s, with winters no worse than that city’s, and summers like Helsinki;
- Lots of oxygenating green space;
- A zone or zones with the density, skyscraping verticality and walkability of Manhattan, or maybe central Hong Kong, for identity, legibility, and let’s face it, excitement;
- Boulevards with the leafy slope and generous broadness of Barcelona’s Ramblas or Tokyo’s Omotesando (at least as the latter existed up until 2003, i.e. prior to the destruction of the Dojunkai Apartments and their replacement with Ando’s jumped-up, pompous mall);
- Flabbergasting ethnolinguistic diversity, with all that implies for the eating experience;
- Lots of mixed-use close in to the core, and lower-density, more purely residential outlying districts with the easygoingness, human scale and hardy housing stock I remember from my adolescence in West Philadelphia;
- These connected to the downtown(s) and to each other by something like the vividly multimodal transitscape of central Amsterdam, where a road, a sidewalk and a bustling bikepath will all converge in crossing over a canal (and I’d thrown in Portland’s light-rail network);
- Enough cheap housing so that everyone who wants one has a room to call their own - and enough cheap warehouse/event space to support an arts community like Berlin’s;
- The 24-hour bustle and ad-hoc spirit of Seoul - where a vacant lot plus a grill plus a tent equals a nightspot, and in nice weather you don’t even need the tent;
- Something in the lay of the streets that recalls Daikanyama, or the winding backways between Shibuya and Ebisu;
- It’s undeniably haute-bourgeous, and titled perilously toward consumerism, but if you’re going to have commercial zones I’ve always felt that something works about Berkeley’s Fourth Street;
- Thousands of idiosyncratic small bookshops, cafés, bars and other service establishments;
- Moments of sudden, unexpected grace - a planted nook, a shaded arcade or courtyard, a humble bench;
- London cabs, Amsterdam bikes, old Saigon cyclos, Yamanote-sen trains - and while we’re at it, why not make it safe for motorcyclists so I can ride my beloved SV once more;
- All of this undergirded by a thoughtfully-designed informatic infrastructure that sutures all these experiences together, that lets them speak themselves, that does what it needs to and then goes away.

How’s that? Schizogeographic enough for you? Man, I’ve made myself wistful, just listing all of that - the odds that I’ll ever actually get to live in any such place are, if anything, dwindling. But, y’know, someone once told me that hell is what happens when you can’t imagine what heaven looks like anymore…and at least for the time being, as you can see, I still have one or two ideas about that.

In the fall of 1992, I commited to my hard drive (where it was to stay) some three hundred pages of an unforgiveably awful, utterly unpublishable novel: a work of vaguely noirish but otherwise genre cyberpunk I called The Carbon Sutra. And in this book our protagonists, SFPD detectives Thuy Tran and Sean “Chunkstyle” Salinas, happen to chase their prey into and through an illegal club called Lush Mechanique…

[T]hree floors of moiling frenzy, sweat and gender panic. Making it all even better, all that polymorphous kink in full bloom in direct view of the Supes’ chambers, under the blind aegis of so much civic respectability.

The upstairs a black box, superheated, bodyhumid and stale with skunky potsmoke. Packed up here - the DJ, a local favorite named Lamprey, cut back and forth against the backing track, playing silence like a drum, dropping an antipercussion of rapid-onset quiet into the spaces between beats, and in general fucking shit heavily up. The crowd responded in kind: you could feel something formless and a little scary rising as an undertow as the beat got heavier, harder, faster, denser. The individual movements of dancers across the floor went still jerkier, epileptiform and jagged as the BPM count headed north of 220.

The grind rose to an all-but-unbearable intensity for almost a full minute, then broke into abrupt, angular silence, as if the DJ simply couldn’t maintain that level of output. A burst of chant exploded from the dancefloor, filling the void to its edges - “ATTACK! DECAY! SUSTAIN! RELEASE!” - then the beat picking back up as the final hoarse sibilant hissed into nothingness.

Yeah, I thought that was pretty clever. But now look. That’ll teach me to bury my work.

Punks.

It occurs to me that I have fairly extensive layovers in Singapore both on the way into Bali and on my way back out again - certainly long enough for the kind of rapid urban insertion Fabien helped me pull off in Barcelona last March.

What say you? Any takers? Anyone up for meeting me out at Changi for coffee or some such?

(Sorry, couldn’t resist.)

Ordinarily, due to the nature of this event, I wouldn’t mention it here - I mean, no point letting folks know about something they won’t be able to attend - but I am delighted to confirm that I will be speaking at the Nokia Asia Pacific CEO Summit 2007, 03-05 October at the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, Indonesia.

Needless to say, this is a very exciting event and I am honored to have been invited to share my perspective. We’re going to be exploring the unique risks and opportunities presented to mobile providers by the emergence of full-fledged everyware - especially, in line with the event’s theme of “Kampung 2.0,” as that everyware begins to leak out of the metropolis and into the daily life of the village. It’s an utterly fascinating topic, real Jan Chipchase stuff, and I can’t wait to get into the thick of it.

This is also going to be, my goodness gracious, something on the order of 72 hours in transit for a roughly equivalent interval on the ground - my longest flight EVAR, by more than a little. Damn good thing those many hours will be spent in the care of Singapore Airlines, which is reputed to be somewhat capable in this department.